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13 May 2013 17:50
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Dog Clicker training - Basics Clicker training has been a long established way of trainingmany animals in a reward based manner. It is both effective and kind and can belearnt by anyone. Clicker training is so effective it is the choice of manyanimal trainers and is used to teach an array of animals from cats, dogs,horses to tigers, dolphins and even elephants! Although you might not beteaching a tiger you can still use clicker training to teach your pet dog basiccommands right through to party tricks. What you need: The needs for clicker training are very basic, you will needa clicker, some small food bits (‘Coachies’, very fine pieces of soft dog treator tiny pieces of cheese) and depending on what you are teaching. How it works: The clicker works on ‘conditioning’ your pet to carry out abehaviour, this is called shaping. It is done purely by positive reinforcement,in other words rewarding your dog for the behaviour. It’s important tounderstand you are not bribing the dog; the treat is slowly taken out of theequation in order to make the click sound the reward. It is effective as ittells the dog the exact moment the behaviour was correct and does so withoutbeing angry, upset or tired! In effect it is enabling you to talk to your dog.You should limit the sessions to no more than 10-15 minutes, to allow the dogto understand what it has learnt. Associating the clicker The first thing to do is to associate the clicker with apositive meaning, if you don’t do this it will just be a sound to ignore. To dothis you need very, very small pieces of food. Tiny pieces of sausage,Coachies, small pieces cheese or small bits of soft dog treat. They need to besmall as it is meant to give the reward of a taste, you don’t want to fill yourdog up! Start by putting a few pieces on the floor. As the dog eats them, saynothing, just click. After 3 or 4 times doing this try throwing one or twopieces and clicking as your dog is about to eat it. A couple of times at thisand your pet pooch should have linked the click with a reward. Test this bywaiting until your dog has stopped looking for food on the floor and whilstsaying nothing clicking. If he or she looks at you throw a tid bit down. If notcarry on with the previous stage until he or she looks at you after the click. Teaching ‘Sit’ Now the dog has associated the clicker with a reward you canstart teaching commands. To teach sit have the dog near you (you may want tostart indoors at first) and just wait. When the dog sits immediately click andhand a tiny piece of food. After a couple of goes at this repeat the step butwhen he sits click and say ‘sit’, while handing a piece of food. Repeat this afew more times. Now, try calling ‘sit’ first. Wait, do not continue callingthis, just wait until the dog sits. As it does, click and give a bit of treat.It may take longer to get this right so give it a few goes. You will noticethat your dog will begin to sit more immediately after the command. When itsits straight after you calling the command, stop rewarding with food everytime. Keeping the food random (but the click consistent) makes sure it isworking for the click not the food and in essence the approval of you ratherthan food. As the dog gets more and more confident with the command ‘sit’ youcan give food less and less. Using this basic method you can teach other tricks andcommands, such as ‘come’, ‘stay’,‘heel’ and ‘paw’. Gordon Bloomfield © 2010 http://www.allpet.co.uk
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2 Nov 2012 16:58
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Should I give
my Tortoise a Bath?
People seem to have many
different ideas regarding "outside" care for a healthy tortoise, that
is, the part that he lives in! One thought is that since turtles are "wild" animals,
they needn't be bathed. Exactly the opposite is true. Another misconception is preparations of
some type (many of which are commercial) are recommended, to be placed on the
shell, to "give it nutrients" and make it shiny. Many, if not most of
these products, are potentially harmful. Both the carapace and the plastron of a tortoise or turtle is
comprised of living tissue. It needs oxygen and exposure to sunlight to keep
healthy. The build-up of
soils, waxes, oils, or other preparations, is actually harmful to a tortoise's
shell. The keratin and bony layers contain millions of microscopic pores, and
things such as the products mentioned actually clog the pores, causing
problems. It is perfectly
safe to give your chelonian friend a bath, in fact he/she might actually like
it!Use a bowl big enough to accommodate
the tortoises, and tepid water, no deeper than is necessary to cover the entire
plastron, and a few centimetres of the carapace. Allow your tortoise awhile to rehydrate itself, usually 15
to 20 minutes, then replace the water. Often, tortoises will often take
advantage of this time to replace their water stores, voiding the old, and
replacing it with fresh. Take
the toothbrush and gently brush the entire carapace, being particularly
attentive to any areas of build up, between the scutes, and beneath the
carapace as well, to include all areas above the head, surrounding the legs,
and around the tail. Repeat
the same for legs, tail, and neck. Be careful of any areas not covered with
scales, as these areas can be more sensitive. Repeat the same procedure with the plastron, paying careful
attention that all dirt is removed from between the scutes. Finally, rinse well. DO NOT use any type
of detergent, shampoo, or other product unless recommended by your
veterinarian. Some of these products, while safe for dogs, cats, or people, can
be potentially harmful, and sometimes even fatal to turtles.
Turtles and terrapins, even
though most always in water, appreciate a shell cleaning on occasion as well.
Algae, shedding skin, and normal peeling of the scutes in paper-thin fragments
can all be removed from the turtle, allowing for healthier shell growth.
After your turtle is clean and dry,
if healthy and on a good diet, should have a shell which shines all by itself.
No additional treatment should be necessary. This procedure gives the owner an excellent opportunity to
examine the animal in detail for any problems, such as injuries, shell rot, or
abrasions. Regular, monthly
cleaning and inspection make for a healthier, happier turtle, with less chance
of potential for skin or shell problems.
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24 Jul 2012 13:41
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Pets do get fleas and not just the mucky ones; I have to tell people this quite often who come into my pet shop. Many people claim their pets don't need flea products because their animals have never been infected. Just the other day I noticed my dog was scratching a bit more than usual and when I checked her coat I discovered that "yes” she had them.
Adult fleas treats your pet as a food source, they jump on to feed but don't stay there, the rest of its life is spent in the local environment, i.e. your carpets, rugs and furniture, here it will lay it's eggs, ‘thousands of them'. These eggs then hatch into larvae and find their way into any dark, warm spaces. From here they turn into pupae, which then hatch into an adult flea. This can take a matter of just days, or the pupae can remain dormant for many months, allowing the fleas to survive the winter outside. This is why, when your pets have fleas, it is so important to treat the house as well. In fact only 5% of the total flea population is the adult flea, the other 95% are the eggs, larvae and pupae of the next generation.
Fleas survive by sucking blood from your pet. In fact, they much prefer pets to people, so even if you are not being bitten, does not mean you don't have a problem! If you are getting bites, it is likely you have a large infestation and the fleas are feeding on you in desperation. This is why it is so important to regularly check and treat your pets for fleas. You don't often see live fleas on a pet (and if you do, again the infestation is likely to be heavy) but you can spot flea dirt. This looks like flecks of black soil but will readily turn red when combed from the fur and dampened on a piece of paper. Other signs include excessive scratching (in dogs) or grooming (in cats), small scabs appearing on the back or tail base and sore skin. Fleas are by far the most common cause of skin irritations in animals and should always be treated for in any dermatological problems, whether they have been seen or not.
There are various ways of protecting your pet against fleas and the most convenient and effective are spot-on products. The best don't go into the animal's blood stream but stay in the skin, where they will kill fleas before they can feed. These types of product are particularly useful for animals that are allergic. With some pets even a single bite can start a bad reaction resulting in further treatment being needed. Some spot-on products will also help treat the local environmental effect and prevent any of the larvae from developing in areas where the pet resides. These types of product are available from either your vet, on-line pharmacies or pet shops. With treating smaller animals or young ones, flea sprays or powder are best, as they allow very accurate dosing and are very safe. You may also find it beneficial to bathe the animal using a flea shampoo. Tablets are also available for pets who will take them, and who are not allergic to flea bites, with these the insect needs to bite its host before it is killed.
Remember, treating your pets is not the whole solution, you need to treat the large amount of eggs, larvae and pupae in the local environment? So you can see why it is equally important to treat your home. Use a good quality household flea spray from your local pet shop or vet. When treating the home put your heating on as this will help encourage the fleas to hatch, and so killing them with the chemical spray you are using. Do not vacuum after treating an area; leave it for at least a week, as the fleas will continue to hatch. You may have to use several treatments to rid the area of them completely. To monitor the area you can put down flea traps, these consist of a light over a plastic dish with a sticky pad in, the fleas are attracted to the light mistaking its warmth for body heat and as the fleas are trapped on the sticky pad you can easily see if the infestation is under control.
If your pet is regularly protected with spot on or other products against fleas, then a large home infestation is less likely. In order to breed a female flea must feed on a victim, a blood meal is what she needs and if she bites a protected pet she will die before she can do so.
Fleas are undoubtedly the most common pest in domestic pets and can cause problems from mild skin irritations through to very nasty skin infections. Protecting the animal with the aforementioned flea products of course easily prevents them and so ensuring they will not breed in your home.
On a final note if you are really struggling to get rid of these unwanted visitors to your home, consider calling in a professional pest controller. They will have access to a large variety of different treatments some of which are not readily available otherwise. You will of course still need to visit your local pet shop for the preventative spot-on and other types of treatments such as sprays and powders for your actual pet.
Gordon Bloomfield © 2010 http://www.allpet.co.uk/
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3 May 2012 10:25
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Product review – Kong for dogs
The Kong range of dogs, cats and birds are innovative, long lasting and are almost any pet owners essential, once they try them. At the heart of the range is a superb product simply known as ‘Kongs', which are intended for dogs. Made from durable rubber and in a number of types there really is a perfect one for every pooch.
So what does it do? Simply put it's a toy, but used in the right way can become an innovative a simple training aid or even a house saver if your dog suffers from separation anxiety. Generally they are formed in a ‘blobby' cone shape or a hexagonal cone shape, with a large hole in one end and a smaller hole (for ease of cleaning) in the other. This unique shape helps them to bounce, roll and balance like no other dog toy. But there is more, the hole can be stuffed with treats and depending on what sort you use, can transform the Kong for different purposes.
For example, you can use small bits of your dog's favourite kibble, which will come out when rolled or thrown. This makes a great interactive toy for any dog, it also provides mental stimulation as they roll and shake the Kong to get to the treats. However, Kong ‘Stuff 'em's' are a fantastic biscuit with a strange shape, that get wedged in the Kong. This can be fun for your dog as he eventually gets them out or can be used as a training aid for retrieving, as you can easily remove one treat as a reward for bringing it back.
Kong also has practical applications. You can leave the Kong toy as a distraction for dogs that become distressed at being left. Putting tasty morsels in the Kong and sealing it with either frozen cream cheese or Kong ‘stuff'n' paste makes a great distraction. The dogs become so engrossed at getting the food by the time they have, they forget about you leaving, gradually reducing the stress they feel when you leave the house. Another great idea is stuff the end with a treat or kibble, then filling with water to be frozen. In hot weather this makes a fantastic treat that helps keep dogs cool!
But surely all this food and fun would make the dog love it to death? Well Kong have even thought of that. The Kongs come in different sizes, from puppy to small, medium, large and even giant! Along with these sizing they have different softness. For puppies a different type of rubber is used, so they are soft on gums and aid teething. The small medium and large come in the standard softness, which is durable enough not to be broken or ripped but still kind to your companion's teeth! But what about the dogs that can seemingly chomp their way through anything? Well the medium, large and giant sizes come in a variation called ‘extreme'. This type has the most solid rubber and is virtually indestructible, making Kongs a good investment!
Gordon Bloomfield © 2010 http://www.allpet.co.uk/
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13 Apr 2012 11:12
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Pet Gazette have kindly offered to feature us in the next issue that should be out in May a copy of the article is included below.
Of more interest is our continuation of last months (March) offers that we will continue to run for as long as we can, some great savings are available with 20% off many reptile products and 10% off selected dog coats.
Questions for The Pet Shop and Reptile Ranch
http://www.allpet.co.uk/
How did you get into the pet industry?
I have always had an interest in animals and worked in agriculture when I left school. Growing up we had a lot of pets including dogs, guinea pigs, tortoises and fish, I also rescued quite a few injured wild animals as we lived next to a forest. It was back in the mid 90's after working in a variety of industries I started looking to open my own shop and a pet shop just seemed an obvious choice. I started keeping reptiles and quite a few of my friends had them so decided to specialise in them, something that not many pet shops were doing at the time.
Your pet shop was opened in 1995. How has the pet industry changed since you first started out?
There is a lot more competition now from supermarkets and other businesses selling pet food and products. The Internet has changed things a lot, with online sales increasing year on year and online directories helping customers find local businesses particularly if you specialise.
How many people work alongside you?
I employ 1 part time staff (Alison) who has worked in the pet trade for quite a few years and my wife works part time in the shop and looks after the accounts.
You also have a website – www.allpet.co.uk. How do you find running the store and the website?
It is not a problem running the website and the shop, we mange to fit in dealing with online orders and enquiries between serving customers in store. I am used to working with computers as I worked in the publishing industry producing illustrative graphs etc. for journals.
What is your best-selling product at the moment?
Burns and James Wellbeloved pet foods are popular, we also sell a lot of wild bird products particularly seed and nuts which we manage to compete well with others for on price.
What's the best thing about your job?
I enjoy having different animals around in particular the reptiles, also you get to meet lots of interesting people who of course have a passion for animals. Being self employed means I can take time off to be with my family when I want which is also a bonus.
What advice would you give to someone else starting out in the business?
Preferably find an area that does not have much competition or purchase an existing business. Consider specialising but I would not be too exclusive, I have seen quite a few pet specialist shops come and go over the years. If you do start from scratch check out the local competition and be prepared to offer more than they do on price or service.
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29 Mar 2012 13:20
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Top five dog toys
Ball flinger ballistic ball thrower
Dogs love to chase things, if you're lucky they might even like to retrieve! This tennis ball and flinger duo is a great way to play fetch with your pooch. The durable plastic and unique shape of the flinger makes throwing the tennis ball really easy, so it's perfect for all ages of owners! You can also avoid handling a dirty or wet tennis ball as it has a scoop perfect for picking up and carrying your dogs favourite ball.
Ball on a rope
Dogs love to chase and tug and even throw their toys around a bit. The classic ball on a rope allows them to do this. You can join in and tug or throw this toy or your pet will enjoy swinging, throwing and running with this toy. It is also perfect for larger dogs that can't play with smaller sized balls, as they won't swallow this one!
Soft squeaky toys
Although not the toughest things, the many designs of squeaky soft toys will keep your dog amused for hours. Older dogs and less active dogs will enjoy cuddling, chewing and squeaking these types of toys.
Wiggly giggly
The wiggly giggly range of toys is great fun! These soft plastic toys come in a variety of shapes depending on what your dog likes to do. There are large balls, jacks, balls on a rope, all with a fun surprise… They all make a unique noise when rolled, shaken or thrown. This noise is unlike any other dog toy and keeps your companion amused for ages!
Frisbees Frisbees are great for more active dogs. They love to chase, retrieve and catch them in mid air. There are a lot of variations in the designs too. For examples smaller dogs might like the ring style Frisbees which are a flexible ring of plastic, which many carry around their neck whilst retrieving! Larger dogs might like the style with a raised area in the middle so that they can pick them up once they land on the ground. Whatever your dogs preference they are a great way to keep your dog busy!
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