	Tarantula care sheet Pet Spiders. An Introductory Information Leaflet From Reptile Ranch in association with Europe's Premier Reptile Product Company Lighting Spiders usually shun bright lights, so artificial light in the cage must be subdued. Often, just the daylight filtering in will be enough. If more light is needed, consider using a spot lamp for both heat and light or a small fluorescent tube could be installed. Food: Crickets, Locusts, Mealworms, and as a special treat Waxworms. Choose insects of an appropriate size. Supplement livefoods by feeding Cricket Diet Plus or Mealworm Diet Plus. Water should be fresh and changed every couple of days. For small specimens, fill the dish with a cotton wool plug to prevent drowning. Background Heat: Use a heat mat between half and two thirds the size of the cage to provide background heating. The hottest spot in the cage should not be above 35ºC while the coolest should not be below 20ºC. Use a HabiStat Mat-Stat if the temperature is too hot but put the whole cage in a cooler place if the temperature is not cool enough. Hot Spot: A local area of higher temperature may be created, if needed, with a spot lamp. The lamp should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Dimming thermo-stat for precise control. Hot spots should be maintained for the same day length as the lights, fourteen in summer, ten in winter. Small cages will not need a hot spot. Cage Decor: Use Rain Forest Substrate, Vermiculite or peat as they will stand up to the periodic spraying with water some spiders need. A small Repti-rock water dish could be used to provide a drink. Cork bark and Curio wood could be used to make an interesting three dimensional display. Draping Repti-Vines in the cage will provide refuges the spiders can hide in. Repti-rock caves would lend even more functionality and security. Cage Set Up: The cage should be set up to allow an active spider plenty of scope to climb, burrow, warm in a hot spot, move to a cooler place and hunt for food. The spiders should also be able to secrete themselves into refuges and lay protected when shedding their skin. Cleanliness and Hygiene: The cage will need cleaning out but only infrequently. A routine cleaner for all nonporous surfaces would be Vetaclene, followed by a thorough rinse. All other materials should be replaced when soiled. Any first aid the spider may be need, can be given by dabbing the wound with Vetadine. As far as human hygiene is concerned, Vetasept Surgical Scrub will clean hands and surfaces while Vetasept Hand Rub will allow adequate cleansing and disinfection even in cases when water is unavailable.

	Stick Insect Caresheet Keeping Pet Stick Insects An Introductory Information Leaflet from Reptile Ranch in association with Europe's Premier Reptile Product Company Cage Set Up: The cage should be set up to allow an active stick insects plenty of scope to climb, warm itself, move to a cooler place and look for food. They will want an occasional drink and to secrete themselves into refuges and hide. They will also need a secure surface to hang from when shedding their skins. Lighting: Many stick insects shun bright lights, so artificial light in the cageshould be subdued. Often, just the daylight filtering in will be enough. If more light is needed, a small Spot Lamp may be used and in which case it will double as an effective heater. Background Heat: Use a heat mat between half and two thirds the size of the cage to provide background heating. The hottest spot in the cage should not be above 30ºC while the coolest should not be below 20ºC. Use a HabiStat Mat- Stat if the temperature is too hot but put the whole cage in a cooler place if the temperature is not cool enough. Food: Stick insects are leaf eaters. Most species will take bramble; while many will take oak, raspberry and hawthorn. There are many other foodplants, so the preferences of the species being kept should be offered. Privet is only eaten by a few species but the common Indian Stick Insect will eat these leaves.

	Scorpion Caresheet An introductory Information Leaflet from The Reptile Ranch in association with Europe's Premier Reptile Product Company. Food: Crickets, Locusts, Mealworms, and as a special treat Waxworms. Choose insects of an appropriate size. Supplement livefoods by feeding Cricket Diet Plus or Mealworm Diet Plus. Water should be fresh and changed every couple of days. For small specimens, fill the dish with a cotton wool plug to prevent drowning. Background Heat: Use a heat mat between half and two thirds the size of the cage to provide background heating. The hottest spot in the cage should not be above 35ºC while the coolest should not be below 20ºC. Use a HabiStat Mat-Stat if the temperature is too hot but put the whole cage in a cooler place if the temperature is not cool enough. Cage Set Up: The cage should be set up to allow an active scorpion plenty of scope to climb, burrow, warm in a hot spot, move to a cooler place and hunt for food. The scorpions should also be able to secrete themselves into refuges and lay protected when shedding their skin.

	Mantis Caresheet Keeping a Pet Mantis An Introductory Information Leaflet from Reptile Ranch in association with Europe's Premier Reptile Product Company Cage Set Up: The cage should be set up to allow an active mantis plenty of scope to climb, warm itself, move to a cooler place and look for food. They will want an occasional drink and to secrete themselves into refuges and hide. They will also need a secure surface to hang from when shedding their skins. Lighting: Many mantis shun bright lights, so artificial light in the cage should be subdued. Often, just the daylight filtering in will be enough. If more light is needed, a small Spot Lamp may be used and in which case it will double as an effective heater. Background Heat: Use a heat mat between half and two thirds the size of the cage to provide background heating. The hottest spot in the cage should not be above 30ºC while the coolest should not be below 20ºC. Use a HabiStat MatStat if the temperature is too hot but put the whole cage in a cooler place if the tempera- ture is not cool enough. Food: Live insects like crickets and locust will form the bulk of the diet. To add variety, a few mealworms or waxworms can be offered. In fact almost any live insect, spider or other small creature will be tackled. Just experi- ment with anything edible to see if it stimulates the appetite of the mantis! Cleanliness and Hygiene: The cage will need cleaning out but only infrequently. A routine cleaner for all nonporous surfaces would be Vetaclene, followed by a thorough rinse. All other materials should be replaced when soiled. Any first aid the stick insects may be need, can be given by dabbing the wound with Vetadine. As far as human hygiene is concerned, Vetasept Surgical Scrub will clean hands and surfaces while Vetasept Hand Rub will allow adequate cleansing and disinfection even in cases when water is unavailable. Cage Decor: Use Rain Forest Substrate as it will stand up to the periodic spraying with water these mantis need. Cork Bark and Curio Wood could be used to make an interesting three dimensional display. Draping Repti-Vines in the cage will provide refuges the mantis can hide in.

	Millipede Caresheet Keeping Giant Millipedes An Introductory Information Leaflet in association with Reptile Ranch Europe's Premier Reptile Product Company Cage Set Up: The cage should be set up to allow an active millipede plenty of scope to climb, warm itself, move to a cooler place and look for food. They may want an occasional drink and to secrete themselves into refuges and hide. They may also burrow in a soft substrate. Lighting: Most millipedes shun bright lights, so artificial light in the cage should be subdued. Often, just the daylight filtering in will be enough. If more light is needed, a small Spotlamp may be used and in which case it will double as an effective day time heater. Background Heat: Use a heat mat between half and two thirds the size of the cage to provide background heating. The hottest spot in the cage should not be above 30ºC while the coolest should not be below 25ºC. Use a HabiStat Mat-Stat if the temperature is too hot but put the whole cage in a cooler place if the temperature is not cool enough. Food: Giant Millipedes are vegetarian animals with a strong prefer- ence for fungi and stale and rotting food. They can also be fed fruit, salads and other vegetables. They will sometimes take moistened flour based foods like bread and biscuit. A convenient diet is a mash of rabbit pellets with a little powdered chalk made into a paste with some water. Cleanliness and Hygiene: The cage will need cleaning out but only infrequently. A routine cleaner for all nonporous surfaces would be Vetaclean, followed by a thorough rinse. All other materials should be replaced when soiled. Any first aid the millipedes may be need, can be given by dabbing the wound with Vetadine. As far as human hygiene is con- cerned, Vetasept Surgical Scrub will clean hands and surfaces while Vetasept Hand Rub will allow adequate cleansing and disinfection even in cases when water is unavailable.

The Pet Shop & Reptile Ranch Oxfordshire UK 193560