Species: Red-eared Terrapin
(Trachemys scripta elegans).
These are the most commonly
kept terrapin in this country, and the most
abused. They are not recommended unless you
are prepared for a long-lived animal that will
reach up to 9 inches in length, and can provide
for all its requirements.
Distribution & General Ecology
Red-eared Terrapins are
found from southern Michigan (in the north)
to the Gulf of Mexico (in the south), the Mississippi
drainage areas (central), westward to Nebraska,
Oklahoma and Texas, the lower Rio Grande river
systems, and eastwards to Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee
and Alabama.
Females can reach 5 -
9 inches in length, the record being 11 inches.
Males are much smaller, on average 4 - 6 inches.
The carapace is olive-green to brown (black
in some older males), with radiating yellow
centre bars surrounded by dark-green and yellow
whirls on each scute. The plastron is yellow
with dark-green markings resembling circles
and smudges, or a combination of both. There
are yellow markings on the head and limbs, and
behind the eye is a red or orange stripe.
These terrapins prefer
lakes and ponds, slow moving rivers and streams
with muddy bottoms and aquatic vegetation. Basking
can take up most of a terrapins day, and occurs
on logs, sandbanks or any other projections
that they can find. When basking, they extend
their head and limbs in order to warm up, and
this allows them to become more active in order
to feed.
In their natural environment,
terrapins have a wide variety of foods, including
insects, snails, tadpoles and frogs, small fish,
fresh-water molluscs, shrimps and aquatic vegetation.
Most of their vitamins and minerals come from
these foods.
Housing in Captivity
Housing depends on the
size and number of terrapins kept. For two or
three hatchlings a 24 x 12 x 12 inch aquarium
will be needed, while larger terrapins will
require a 48 x 15 x 15 inch aquarium.
Plastic or glass-fibre
pools are preferable for larger terrapins and
can be made very attractive as an indoor feature.
The container should be divided into 2/3rds
water and 1/3rd land areas, with a water depth
equivalent to twice the length of the animal.
The land area can be constructed of well-washed
house bricks. The use of gravel is best avoided.
This is often swallowed by the animals, leading
to gut problems, is difficult to clean and may
become a breeding ground for harmful bacteria.
As terrapins are "cold-blooded'
they require heat to keep them active and in
good condition. Below a temperature of 1 9°C
(66°F) they become sluggish and stop feeding,
so it is important to establish a suitable temperature
at which they will feed but no become over-active.
A water temperature of 24°C (75°F) is
suitable, with the air temperature within a
few degrees of this to avoid chilling. If one
uses a glass-type aquarium heater/thermostat,
this MUST be placed inside a PERFORATED protective
shield to stop the terrapins breaking it.
Although some people keep
their terrapins out-doors all year round, we
would not recommend this practice unless they
are experienced keepers.
Sunlight is necessary
for good health, so if possible terrapins should
have access to this. If this is not possible,
then ultra-violet light (e.g. Trulight , Blacklight
) should be provided over the basking area.
Filtration is essential
to keep the water clean, especially with more
than one terrapin or with the larger animals.
Under-gravel aquarium filters are not adequate,
and a suitable power filter (e.g. Ehiem) should
be used.
Food & Feeding
Diet should be as varied
as possible to ensure a proper nutritional balance.
Good quality Koi pellets are excellent, but
should not be used alone. Earthworms (not brandlings
or those from compost heaps which may be toxic)
and insects are readily taken. Raw liver can
be given once a week, but red meat should be
avoided. Whitebait, white fish, un-peeled shrimps,
an occasional pinkie mouse and some fruit and
vegetables, can be given. The diet should be
supplemented with calcium, in the form of cuttlefish
bone, and with a vitamin preparation such as
Nutrobal (VetArk), Vionate or SA37
Breeding
Breeding rarely occurs
in captivity, except where the animals are farmed
within their normal geographical range or occasionally
in zoos with the facility to provide heated
sandbanks in large terraria. Females may occasionally
lay infertile eggs and even if fertile eggs
are laid, conditions are rarely suitable for
successful hatching.
Diseases
In captive aquatic
chelonia that are correctly kept, diseases or
not very common. Most diseases are due to incorrect
husbandry.
Soft-shell, which is due to lack of calcium in
the diet, can be prevented by giving cuttlefish
bone or mineral supplement and ultra-violet light.
Swollen and puffy eyes may also indicate a deficient
diet, or may be due to an eye infection, both
of which can be readily treated by a vet.
Tilting of the body and coughing are both serious
conditions that should be referred to a vet without
delay.
Fungus infection is not common, dead skin often
being mistaken for fungus, and can be prevented
by having an adequate land area on which the animal
can dry off
Loss of appetite is usually cured by a change
of diet or by raising the temperature.
Occasionally with mature females this may precede
egg laying, and if given access to a suitable
sandy area the female will excavate a trench and
lay. However, as previously stated, conditions
are rarely suitable for successful breeding.
Summary
Terrapins, if kept correctly,
make interesting, rewarding and long-lived "pets.
Before purchasing them, ensure that you have
read as much on the subject as you can, are
prepared for a long-term commitment and have
the facilities available to meet the animals
needs. REMEMBER - it is very difficult to find
a home for unwanted terrapins these days.
The following are just a few
of the Reptile Care Sheets we have available.
For the full list please contact
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