Tree Frogs
Distribution and General Ecology
There are 600 or so species of tree
frog ranging across the tropical and subtropical
areas of the world. Tree frogs are (as their
name suggests) arboreal, although some are terrestrial
and some even dig burrows. Their most distinguishing
features are their toe pads which allow them
to climb up even very smooth surfaces. Most
are extremely agile and are capable of leaping
great distances and some are even called "flying
frogs". Most tree frogs are small in size. The
most common species available are fairly easy
to cater for in captivity.
The Red Eyed Tree Frog, (Agalychnis callidryas)
which grows to around 7 cm, and requires a large
vivarium and a temperature around 23°C.
is one of the most popular kept.
Marsupial Frogs are another species of frog
which you may find for sale. These are robust
frogs and which carry their eggs and tadpoles
on their backs. They mainly come from Equador
and also from high altitudes, so can be kept
fairly cool, and they are mainly terrestrial
in habit.
Many of the Hyla genus of tree frog are the
most commonly available. They include the American
Green Tree Frog, (Hyla cinerea),the Barking
Tree Frog, (Hyla gratiosa) , and the American
Grey Tree Frog, (Hyla versicolor). Temperatures
for these arboreal frogs can vary from about
20° - 25°C in the summer (slightly lower
in the winter).
The European Tree Frog, (Hyla arborea) is the
commonest of the European species, and you may
find captive bred specimens. It is probably
more suited to keeping in a greenhouse or conservatory,
and this is especially important if breeding
is to take place as they need a lot of room.
Temperatures of 21° - 27°C in summer
are tolerated by this species, but may be cooler
in winter.
The Cuban Tree Frog, (Osteopilus septentrionalis),
and White's Tree Frog(Litoria caerulea), both
require large vivariums with a temperature around
25°C. These species are also quite partial
to eating other small frogs, and so care should
be taken when finding tank-mates.
Housing in Captivity
Housing these frogs is fairly easy.
However, because some species require a warm
climate, care must be also taken to provide
enough ventilation as well as humidity. A tall,
glass vivarium is best. You should provide an
area of water; an indoor water feature with
running water into a small pool would be ideal,
always consider how cleaning will be achieved
though.
Heating can be provided useing heat mats underneath
glass vivaria, that may be controlled by a thermostat.
If a large area of water is used, heating can
also be from an aquarium heater/thermostat.
Lighting can be in the form of a U.V. output
fluorescent tube. This will help the frogs in
assimilating vitamin D3. These tubes also give
off a small amount of heat as well and the frogs
may enjoy basking underneath them. Some frogs
are also nocturnal, so subdued lighting such
as coloured low wattage bulbs would be better
than spot bulbs.
When decorating the vivarium, again easy maintenance
is required Plastic plants may be preferable,
as they are easily cleaned. For a more natural
look however, you may use potted plants. Broad-leaved
varieties are best, as some of the large tree
frogs can bend or snap spindly leaves and stems.
If you are keeping tropical species, then bromiliads
are ideal. Plants help the animals settle in,
and provide cover as well as territorial areas.
A greenhouse can be very useful in providing
the space necessary for some species. For ventilation
all windows need to be covered with a fine mesh,
to prevent escapes. Plants will be easier to
grow in a greenhouse, and a large pool or water
feature may be used. A base of firmly compacted
stone or gravel will prevent escapies, and this
may then have a top coat of loose rubble substrate,
with gravel and soil to finish. Many hobbyists
also keep newts and salamanders in this type
of set up, incorporate pipework into the substrate
so that the animals have a ready made hibernaculum.
Heat build up in summer needs to be guarded
against by shading the greenhouse. In the same
way, cold weather in winter can be equally devastating,
and any heating systems need to be efficient.
Alarms are now available, which warn of a heater
failure.
Food and Feeding
Most tree frogs will accept fruit flies,
house flies, and crickets. Mealworms are sometimes
taken but they must be small and preferably
just moulted. All food items should be nutrient
loaded and can be dusted in a vitamin and calcium
supplement prior to feeding. Sweepings from
the garden and hedgerows can be used but be
careful the area has not been sprayed with insecticides.
Seasonal Cues
Many tree frogs spawn in the spring
and continue throughout the summer. Unless the
frog comes from a tropical habitat, most tree
frogs can be induced to breed by slightly cooling
the surroundings for a few weeks to imitate
winter, and then raising the temperature again.
The tropical frogs need the seasonal heavy rains
to induce spawning.
Courtship and Reproduction
The males call is a loud raucous sound.
The American Tree frog (Hyla cinerea) has a
very loud/deep call, whilst others have high
pitched whistle type calls. Tree frogs from
the tropics are encouraged to breed in the wild
by the onset of heavy rains. By allowing the
vivarium to dry slightly and then spraying the
tank heavily for a few days until the water
area is filled. The males should begin calling
and if all goes well, the pairs should spawn.
If the female has been well fed previously and
is in good condition, then the male will be
allowed to mate. The male is usually smaller
than the female and is carried on her back until
spawning takes place. Some frogs spawn directly
into water, and some like the Asian Tree Frog
(Polypedates leucomystax), produce a foam-nest
in which the eggs are laid on a tree branch
over a pond. When the tadpoles hatch they drop
into the water below.
Eggs and Young
After spawning has taken place, the
tadpoles can be reared on flaked fish food.
It is preferable to rear the tadpoles in a separate
aquarium heated to the same temperature when
as that spawning took place, which could be
between 20° to 25°C. The aquarium should
also be filtered with a sponge air driven filter
so that the smallest tadpoles will not get sucked
into the filter, as would happen with a power
filter. Water changes should be frequent and
at the same temperature as the old water. The
tadpoles should be given as much room as possible,
otherwise the overcrowded conditions will stunt
their growth.
Metamorphosis usually takes from four to eight
weeks if the tadpoles are fed well. Once the
tadpoles have their rear legs, they need to
be transferred to another tank with a sloping
gravel substrate and an inch or two of water,
so the metamorphs do not drown when they develop
their lungs. The young froglets can be fed on
the smallest crickets, fruit flies, and some
will even take live bloodworm from a small tray,
(a plastic jar top works well for this). It
can take up to two years until a froglet has
matured.
The following are just a few
of the Reptile Care Sheets we have available.
For the full list please contact
us.
Burmese
Python
Blue-tongued
Skink
Chameleon
(Chamaeleo Calyptratus)
Corn
Snakes
Argentinian
Horned Frog
Leopard
Gecko
Mediterranean
Tortoises
Red-eared
Terrapin (Trachemys scripta elegans)
Royal
Python (Python regius)
Chinese
Water Dragon (Physignathus cocincinus)
Bearded
Dragon
Uromastyx
Reptile
Care Advice Sheet (General Advice)
Cat
Care Advice Sheet
Dog
Care Advice Sheet
View
All Our Pet Care Advice Sheets
